Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Jambalaya, Where Oh Where Oh?
Posted by Ian McNulty on Wed, Feb 20, 2008 at 9:13 PM
Newcomers and visitors often arrive with the notion that jambalaya is some centerpiece of the New Orleans table and that it should be as prevalent in local restaurants as Tabasco bottles. I certainly did, and was rudely disabused of that notion on my very first meal as a New Orleans resident. I had absolutely no clue about local restaurants, so when I took a stroll to explore the blocks around my temporary Garden District lodgings that first night in town I was excited to find a place called Igor's Garlic Clove and see jambalaya featured prominently on its menu. The Garlic Clove was attached and related to Igor's Lounge & Game Room on St. Charles Avenue and, fortunately, it isn't there anymore, having morphed into several different configurations in the intervening years. I can still recall how wretched and disappointing was that first New Orleans meal of brick-red, brick-dust-dry jambalaya with its burned bits of sausage and choking surfeit of salt.
Needless to say, my relationship with New Orleans food quickly improved from there and has grown into a true love affair. But I still find it surprisingly difficult to get a good bowl of jambalaya. In this week's review of Ignatius Eatery, the jambalaya was my most serious qualm with the kitchen, which otherwise produces some great renditions of local comfort food. Coop's Place sometimes makes a good jambalaya with rabbit, tasso, shrimp and chicken, but it can be maddeningly inconsistent. And there just aren't that many other restaurants where the dish is even listed.
In fact, the best versions I've ever tried have come from people's home stoves or from gigantic vats cooked up at festivals and special event (like the example pictured above, a Cajun-style jambalaya served at Jazz Fest last year). Commenting on a pot of the stuff I made recently for a house party, a friend remarked that it tasted like "parish sheriff reelection fundraiser jambalaya," which I was flattered to accept as high praise. But that doesn't help the visitor who arrives with a hunger for this famous New Orleans dish.
Maybe there is something that makes this an especially difficult dish for restaurants to prepare, but I can't think of a reasonable excuse. If anyone out there has some insight into this or knows of a restaurant around town that makes a consistent, good jambalaya, I'd love to see some comments from you.
- Ian McNulty
Comments (7)
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Hey Ian, poor thing bless your heart. I know what you mean. Agreed that the best jambalaya is on the stove at home but so with everything in New Orleans? OK...more than once at 3 0r 4 in the morning I have had wonderful jambalaya at La Paniche (sp) at the corner of Dauphine & Turo (I think) in the triangle of the Faugorg Marigny. However the best ever was from a food truck on Frenchman Street. His name is "Good Food ta'Geaux?", big white panel truck with an alligator painted on the side, that usually comes out on weekends but I don't know the disposition of those food-truck type guys with da'city currently. If you can find him on the weekends you are one lucky bro. Now you lost me with COOPS which has Never dissappointed me. Their price is a bit high though. Elisabeths in the bywater? Schiro's at Royal and St Rock usually has jambalaya, but don't know how it rates...the other food I have had there is great. Does dat'help? Remember..."Good Food Ta'Geaux" Frenchman Street.
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Well I can't really help you out in terms of New Orleans restaurants, but if you're ever in Baton Rouge, try to swing by Jambalaya Shoppe.
Hey db, I'm glad you reminded me about the Jambalaya Shoppe. I ate there many times in the months after Katrina when I was working in Baton Rouge. And I remember now the restaurant had a location in downtown New Orleans for a while, in One Shell Square. There was a place of the same name anyway. That was excellent jambalaya, and I remember they served great gumbo, beans, the whole deal. I ate there frequently when I worked in the CBD. I miss that place now! -Ian McNulty
I agree with your Coops assessment...very hit and miss. When I have friends in town and they ask for the New Orleans food experience, and they want it clicheed..ie Jambalaya, Etouffe, Gumbo...I send them to Coops. Another place that doesn't let down their preconceptions is the Gumbo Shop in the Quarter. I used to go to Fiorellas but have been disappointed once too often now. How is Dooky Chase or Willy Maes?
Ian - I was going to recommend the rabbit jambalaya at Coop's, but I see you're not crazy about it. You're mos def right about bad jambalaya - there's nothing worse than being served a lukewarm plate of Spanish rice with a few lumps of dry chicken in it. Other than that, jambalaya is (to me) best made at home when one has the appropriate leftovers...it's just not a restaurant dish, except perhaps in the homestyle places around Lafayette. That doesn't help the poor visitor who wants to try "New Orleans jambalaya," of course.
