Holy Rollers
Bixby's Cafe bags the elusive bagel.
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You'll find an assortment of bagels, toppings and friendly smiles at Bixby's Cafe.
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WHAT: Bixby's Cafe
CUISINE: American
WHEN:Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
WHERE: 1000 S. Clearview Pkwy., Elmwood Shopping Center, 733-5010
CARDS: Major
Americans consume more than 5 million bagels annually. Without
question, part of the reason bagels have been so successful is because they are
filling, inexpensive and widely available. The real proof that bagels are here
to stay came recently when the Swiss army knife added a new blade for the
express purpose of splitting bagels. The beloved roll-with-a-hole is big on the
celebrity circuit. Larry King says he favors salt bagels with lox and cream
cheese, while Ed McMahon likes his onion bagels with peanut butter, and Geraldo
Rivera prefers poppy-seed bagels with cream cheese and olives. Although many
fantasize that the bagel is dietetic, a plain bagel contains 200 calories
before you add even the tiniest smear of cream cheese. Thank goodness for
"lite."
New Orleans lays claim to several excellent bagel emporiums. About
a year ago, Bixby's joined the ranks, opening in the Elmwood Shopping Center.
Bixby's is more than just a bagel joint; it offers a wide assortment of bagels
and delectable spreads in addition to sandwiches made with fresh bread prepared
on the premises, plus various salads, soups and a pastry case full of designer
desserts (including gorgeous cakes prepared by Maurice's bakery). And let's not
forget all those gourmet coffee concoctions and teas. There's a wonderful cold
fruit and coffee drink that I highly recommend for a hot summer day.
Bixby's is a fantasy land for bagel aficionados who can select from
a wide variety of superior versions, from apple cinnamon to chocolate chip,
whole wheat to onion. The assortment of smears and sandwich fixins will make
even the most timid devotee salivate. My favorite is the "lite" spread made
with sun-dried tomatoes, green onions and plenty of spice. I always pick up
some for the fridge when I'm shopping in the area. Other good choices include
the earthy smoked salmon spread, the roasted red bell pepper hummus that
spreads like velvet, the crunchy veggie spread, and various sweet spreads for
the breakfast crowd, the best of which is made with fresh blueberries.
The first time I walked in the place, I was astounded at the
selection of freshly made breads, which includes some excellent focaccia
baguettes, sun-dried tomato batards, caraway rye, pumpernickel, semolina
sesame, multi-grain, sourdough and French. You also can get soup served in one
of those delicious, bulbous boules (rounds of bread with the top cut off).
Several soups are offered daily, including one prepared by John Folse (or so
the sign says). But after sampling the shrimp and corn soup last week, I could
never imagine the acclaimed chef turning out such fare. It was very watery, had
minuscule shrimp and didn't at all taste fresh. Better soup choices include the
housemade chicken noodle, and, for heartier appetites, a very robust,
rib-sticking, thick chicken-chili soup that is seasoned just right.
Bixby's makes excellent sandwiches, overstuffed with everything
from deli meats to eggs and veggies. I like the French dip made with hot roast
beef on crisp French bread and served with steaming au jus. The veggie supreme
is another delectable creation, fashioned with crisp red peppers, banana
peppers that will put a burn on your lips, plus cucumbers, tomatoes, red
onions, sprouts and lettuce, accented with a touch of lite veggie cream cheese.
Because I adore lox, I am partial to the "lots of lox" sandwich, made with, you
guessed it, a whole lot of lox with plain cream cheese, onions and cucumbers.
The turkey club also is recommended and comes with a delightful garlic
mayonnaise. Because I prefer chicken salad and tuna salad with very little
mayo, I don't care for Bixby's versions.
The salads are limited but interesting. There are always several
cold pasta salads to select from, and I have enjoyed the primavera, which has
plenty of fresh veggies and black olives in a tart dressing. The Caesar salad
is rather odd, made with toasted bagel chips as croutons and presented with
shaved Parmesan cheese.
At the entrance, there is always a selection of day-old loaves of
various breads that taste very fresh and cost just $1.25. At the very least,
you can use them for croutons. You'll also find gift baskets and gourmet
goodies galore, such as Robert Rothchild hot pepper raspberry preserves and
tortilla soup, in addition to Bixby's bagged coffees and teas, and an
assortment of biscotti. The sweets are gorgeous. The ones made on the premises
are more rustic and include huge cookies the size of a baby's head; the muffins
and brownies are equally huge. Check out the fruit tart, vanilla Florentine,
baby bundts and anything made with chocolate and served by the slice.
The atmosphere at Bixby's is quite inviting. The large dining room
with slow-spinning ceiling fans has wall-to-wall windows and tile floors that
echo with the clinking of coffee cups and conversation. The youthful staff is
very attentive and fast.
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