Gimmicky Gump
BUBBA GUMP SHRIMP CO. & MARKET offers boiled shrimp, fried shrimp, shrimp
etouffee, gumbo shrimp ...
|
|
|
BUBBA GUMP does shrimp, and that's all we've got to say about that.
|
WHAT: Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. & Market
CUISINE: Seafood
WHEN: Lunch and dinner daily
WHERE: 429 Decatur St., 522-5800
CARDS: Major
Mama always said life is like a box of chocolates: you never know what you're
gonna get. That is kind of how I feel about the new Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. &
Market in the French Quarter, which I visited last week after returning from an
excursion on a shrimp boat in Biloxi. After seeing all those shrimp poured out
onto the deck by a wild-eyed captain, I was inspired to re-experience the
glories of Forrest Gump and his zany shrimping experiences in living color.
Situated next to one of those touristy French Quarter shops that
sells everything from hot sauce to swamp moss and Cajun tapes, the Bubba Gump
Shrimp Co. & Market provided its Hollywood version of gimmickry, with spicy
food on the side. I grabbed a captain's chair near the front doors overlooking
the street. A barker with a menu stood outside to attract passersby. I couldn't
help looking into the adjoining shop, filled with Gump memorabilia.
Two television monitors continually playing the film Forrest
Gump with Tom Hanks put me right in the mood for chowing down on
crustaceans fresh from sea. I began nibbling on some boiled shrimp, which were
very good and fresh (and the safest appetizer choice), served with a fairly
good cocktail sauce. I also ordered spinach dip, which was delicious, although
quite oily. I looked up, and playing on a monitor over the bar was Forrest and
Lieutenant Dan during a hurricane on the Jenny, the legendary shrimp
boat named for Forrest's girl. I sat mesmerized with my mess of shrimp.
After the shrimp were cleared away, I was glued to the next scene
of Forrest Gump (which had no sound, by the way).
Thankfully, my three friends arrived. They had been out touring the French
Quarter. We ordered more appetizers for the table.
As I chewed on some Texas Wild Wings, everywhere I looked, there
were remembrances of Forrest and his glorious shrimping adventures. Ping-pong
paddles were chained to the tables (I suppose to dissuade Forrest fanatics from
lifting the booty), recalling Forrest's days as a ping-pong star. Carved into
the wooden booths were "Gumpisms" galore: those hilarious, innocent phrases
used by Hanks in the movie. However, I nearly choked on the wings, which
actually were several chicken drumettes the color of a fire truck. They had a
very sour flavor and a spice level that made this pepper-loving Cajun girl gasp
for air.
The fried shrimp came out of the kitchen with a dark, soft crust,
almost chocolate brown in color, fried with the tails on. Again, the spice was
overdone. I figured that the cooks had been told that because this is New
Orleans, go ahead and make the tourists happy and load up the spice (there are
eight Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. outlets, stretching from San Francisco to
Honolulu).
The fried okra was OK, but just as easily could have come from the
freezer. The shrimp gumbo would have been an embarrassment to Bubba's mama;
call it rice stew. The melange was mostly white rice with a spicy, thick brown
gravy and seasoning studded with small shrimp. Definitely not New Orleans
fare.
I ordered a Caesar salad and was presented with a mess of Romaine
lettuce with a pale, golden, gooey dressing poured on so generously that it
seemed I was drinking a Caesar soup.
Our entrees came out and some of it was fairly good stuff.
Portions, however, for the price, were skimpy by New Orleans standards (Bubba's
shrimp specials range from $11.99 to $16.99).
Entrees we sampled included an unexceptional garden burger, some
fairly good baby back ribs, and shrimp etouffee. The menu boasts that it has a
"Cajun gravy," but I know of no Cajuns who eat like this. Too thick, gummy and
spicy.
My eyes wandered to the dessert list. The Alabama mud pie was a
delicious medley of chocolate and vanilla ice cream with crumbled Snickers and
caramel, chocolate syrup and whipped cream, dotted with peanuts.
We paid the tab and wandered into the market, gazing at the dummies
wearing Forrest Gump's clothing. One of them wore Forrest's famous bus stop
suit, complete with a suitcase, old running shoes and a box of chocolates.
T-shirts were everywhere.
Odd as it seems, I left the place feeling like watching the movie
again. Although gazing at Forrest Gump memorabilia is entertain- ing
enough, let's face it: you can get better shrimp at a lot of other places in
New Orleans.
|
