Diamond in the Rough
Bywater Bar-B-Que is worth the search.
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BYWATER BAR-B-QUE OWNERS MICHAEL MURRAY AND LINDA SMITH (FRONT) HAVE A PASSION
FOR FOOD FROM THE DEEP SOUTH AND MEXICO.
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WHAT: Bywater Bar-B-Que
CUISINE: Southern with a Mexican flair
WHEN: Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, brunch weekends
WHERE: 3162 Dauphine St., 944-4445
CARDS: None
Discovering restaurants in neighborhoods off the beaten path is one of the more
intriguing aspects of being a restaurant critic. Last week, while scouting
restaurants in Bywater after sunset, I came across Bywater Bar-B-Que Restaurant
& Tavern, which popped out of the dark expanse of Dauphine Street like a
diamond in the rough.
The tiny, open-air cafe, situated on the corner of Louisa and
Dauphine streets in an antiquated building that once housed a pharmacy, was
fragrant with the scent of meats simmering on the grill. A few neighborhood
folks were having dinner at two of the several tables in the small dining room
decorated with paintings by a local artist. At the tinsel-strewn bar, a couple
sat cheek-to-cheek, sipping beers and swaying to the music on the radio.
For those of you unfamiliar with Bywater, the historic neighborhood
has many nuances. Bywater is sandwiched between Faubourg Marigny and the
Industrial Canal and consists of working neighborhoods dominated by Victorian
shotgun houses.
Owned by Linda Smith (who is a gifted cook) and Michael Murray for
the past couple of years, Bywater Bar-B-Que is a homey little eatery that would
become popular in just about any neighborhood. The folks put out some serious
barbecue; they say that the secret is in the sauce, which is enhanced with
plenty of seasoning and jalapeno peppers. The meat is marinated in the sauce
and slapped onto the grill, and the end result is superlative, mouthwatering,
finger-licking 'cue.
If you're a big barbecue fan, I recommend ordering the barbecue
combo, which offers a taste of it all. For $12, you get juicy ribs, chicken
that pulls easily off the bone, and mouth-watering pulled pork lathered in
sauce. Add side orders of macaroni and cheese oozing with cheddar; a heap of
spicy, sweet cole slaw; and some tangy barbecue beans, and you've bought
yourself enough dinner for a small army.
Now, I'm not saying that all the portions are generous. In fact,
some are rather demure, by New Orleans standards. And, of course, man does not
live by barbecue alone. The culinary talents of the kitchen staff isn't limited
to meats on the grill. The cook's affinity for the Deep South is tempered by
Mexican inspiration. And the seafood sets in on Friday nights, when you can
usually get some delicious, deep-fried, golden-brown fresh catfish with just
the right crunch and seasoning, accompanied by creamy cole slaw, steak fries
with plenty of black pepper, and bottled tartar sauce.
Some of the best appetizers I have sampled include the Mexican
skins and crawfish quesadillas. Five small potato halves are filled with
cheese, black olives and green onions. Similar ingredients are stuffed into the
quesadillas, plus a few scant crawfish, and all are served piping hot, creamy
and delicious.
Vegetarians take note: you can get a fine platter of fresh, grilled
veggies served over basmati rice, plus a "jumbo baker" potato as an entree (to
which you can add fresh vegetables, cheese, sour cream and such), plus a fairly
good portobello mushroom sandwich. The grilled 'shrooms are savory enough,
blended with fresh veggies and served with fries. This isn't exactly diet food,
but it's meatless, to be sure. Sandwiches are in the $6-to-$7 range; entrees
range from $4 for a jumbo baker to $13 for a ribeye steak. There's a reasonably
priced weekend brunch menu that includes quiche, omelettes, French toast, eggs
Benedict and Mexican-inspired fare. Service is adequate, given the small amount
of patrons. If you live in the area, they'll deliver the goods right to your
door, but no checks or cards are accepted.
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