Marigny Reborn
A casual cafe gets a new --
and delicious -- lease on life.
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Chef Gary Garitson (sitting) and owners Jed Gisclair and Roland Adams at the revitalized CAFE MARIGNY.
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WHAT: Cafe Marigny
CUISINE: Multicultural
WHEN: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
WHERE: 1913 Royal St., 945-4472
CARDS: Major
Every so often, I come across a wonderful new restaurant that utterly surprises
me. Last week, I was invited to dine with an old friend at Cafe Marigny, which,
until two months ago, was a popular neighborhood coffeehouse designed for those
who are drawn to the simple pleasures of gourmet pastries and superlative java.
The casual, 5-year-old cafe, which is situated in Faubourg Marigny in an area
with ample parking, now offers lunch and dinner fare.
The owners, Jed Gisclair and Roland Adams, put in a new kitchen and recently
hired chef Gary Garitson, a native of Columbus, Ind., who graduated magna cum
laude from Johnson and Wales University with a degree in culinary arts.
Garitson, a hot young chef with an amazing flair for sauces, flavors and
textures, formerly was a line cook at Mr. B's, where he worked since coming to
New Orleans in 1995.
The food is on par with what you'd find at the high-end establishments, but it
is offered at much lower prices. Entrees range in price from $7.95 to $14.95
for dinner and average less than $10 a la carte. What's more, the casual and
charming 50-seat cafe does not have a liquor license yet, so those who want to
bring their own wine are welcome to do so (there's no decanting fee). Gourmet
coffees and gorgeous desserts prepared by a former Windsor Court pastry chef
continue to be served around the clock.
Weekday breakfast chef Rosanne Mitchell, who also does a lot of prep work and
lunch fare, is a former restaurant owner who previously worked for a
well-established New Orleans catering company. The combination of her talents
and the executive chef's wonderful recipes is a winning one. The products of
that fruitful alliance take the form of luscious creme crepes topped with fresh
strawberries in simple syrup; jalapeno and havarti cheese biscuits made fresh
daily and served with homemade peach preserves; spicy black bean cakes stacked
with fried eggs, cheddar and salsa; fancy omelettes, grilled ribeyes and eggs
with grits; beautiful whole wheat pancakes topped with fresh blueberries,
whipped cream and warm syrup; and andouille hash with potatoes and fresh sage.
Those selections are complemented by fresh pastries and a variety of coffee
concoctions.
Lunch offerings include designer sandwiches (with a variety of housemade
breads, including focaccia) and beautiful salads laced with everything from
grilled tuna to grilled pork and housemade focaccia croutons. But I'd recommend
going for a full meal -- preferably during the dinner hour. Start with
delicious marinated portobello mushrooms, which are grilled and layered with
warm goat cheese and roasted red peppers. Then, enjoy a very garlicky, luscious
hummus served with housemade pita bread and extra virgin olive oil. Or choose
beautiful tempura shrimp, a dish featuring a half dozen big, golden crustaceans
served with their tails standing up in a spicy wasabi aioli centered by a
fragrant ginger peach chutney. ("I went from east to west," says the chef of
his diverse menu.)
Among the nine dinner entrees I've sampled so far at Cafe Marigny, one of my
favorites is the grilled tuna, a very fresh 8-oz. piece of fish served on a bed
of artichoke hearts, Roma tomatoes, fresh basil and green lentils over a
wonderfully flavorful balsamic vinegar and white wine reduction sauce mounted
with butter. A delicious vegetarian entree choice includes beautiful marinated
grilled vegetables fanned out around a timbale of mushroom and marsala cous
cous, while another good veggie selection is the mushroom pasta with
portobellos served over angel hair in a garlic veloute. I also really enjoyed
the cheese ravioli, bathed in an earthy seafood stock with fresh roasted corn,
concasse tomatoes, crawfish tails and fresh basil.
The chef is equally adept at meat dishes, including the 10-oz. grilled ribeye
served with fresh grilled asparagus, and the Asian pork chop, a three-inch-tall
chop marinated for 48 hours, grilled and served with a medley of stir-fry
veggies and Asian noodles in a sweet sauce anchored by soy. A novel dish I
really like is the delightful five-pepper, three-bean turkey chili (which I
think would make a great party dip) teamed with corn chips, cheeses, sour cream
and fresh avocado slices.
The desserts at Cafe Marigny are excellent, particularly the cheesecakes,
chocolate praline pecan tart and pistachio cream cake. The owners say they
currently are renovating the back patio for al fresco dining in the fall. For
now, those who want to have a smoke can sit outside at the cafe tables in front
of the restaurant. Free delivery is offered to the French Quarter and Marigny
with a $7 minimum.
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