Into the Fold
LA CREPE NANOU dazzles with its signature dish and myriad other French treats.
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Manager Nicole Siegel welcomes diners to New Orleans' first creperie, LA CREPE NANOU.
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WHAT: La Crepe Nanou
CUISNE: French
WHEN: Dinner nightly
WHERE: 1410 Robert St., 899-2670
CARDS: Major
Newly arrived from France, Nanou de Razensky was puzzled to find street
sno-ball vendors in lieu of the ever-popular French crepe stands that offer
delectable paper thin crepes to passersby. Together with his wife, Josie
Siegel, Nanou set about opening New Orleans' first creperie, La Crepe Nanou, in
Uptown back in 1983.
Business was good, and over the years it has grown and changed for
the better. Through the culinary influence of close friends who were French
chefs, La Crepe Nanou gradually introduced more ambitious French dishes. Chef
Son has spent more than a decade working in the kitchen of La Crepe Nanou and
describes the present menu as upscale bistro-fare.
On the night we dined, our party was greeted by exuberant young
staff members, many of whom have contributed over the years not just to the
friendly, gay ambience of the restaurant, but also to the eclectic artwork and
furnishings that give La Crepe Nanou a distinct, funky-chic feel. The menu is
written in French with English subtitles -- a nice touch. Hors d'oeuvres are
separated into hot and cold items, and most can be ordered in small or large
portions. For those who wish simply to enjoy a platter of pates, cheeses and
baguettes, almost the entire wine list is refreshingly available by the glass
to enable diners to sample a variety of French and American wines.
No French restaurant would be complete without snails, and les
escargots de bourgogne are traditionally baked with garlic, parsley and butter.
Of course, no New Orleans restaurant would be complete without crawfish. Les
coquille aux fruits de mer combines crawfish and crab in a lobster sauce topped
with cheese.
If available, les moules marinieres is an irresistible appetizer.
Peeking out of their twin black shells, the plump, coral-colored mussels are
delicious, bathed in a garlicky light cream and white wine broth, and flecked
with aromatic fresh herbs and ground peppercorns. When in New Orleans, do as
the French do: enjoy mopping up the tasty broth with a piece of baguette.
My companion's soupe a l'oignon arrived sizzling hot in an
oven-proof bowl. The soup contained thinly sliced transparent onions and was
topped with a round of crusty baguette smothered with bubbly, browning Swiss
cheese. The broth was not as beefy as expected, but tasty nonetheless.
For entrees, a no-frills salad with Boston lettuce as a base might
satisfy the light appetite. There are many salads to choose from, including a
salade nicoise that originated in Nanou's hometown of Nice. Two house dressings
are offered: a mustard vinaigrette and a creamy buttermilk. For those looking
for more nourishment, other entree choices are plentiful.
A house specialty is whole fish -- pompano on the night we dined --
prepared on the grill with herbs de Provence. In addition to the mussels, a
three-cheese fondue of Swiss, brie and port salut also is listed as a house
special. The fondue serves two people with ease but could be a fun appetizer
for a larger party.
In selecting an entree, the classic savory crepes attracted my
attention, and I opted for the crepe au crabe. The thin crepe neatly contained
mounds of freshly picked lump crab simmered in a Mornay sauce, and came topped
with plenty more meat, as well as a side of garlicky creamed spinach. The
ingredients used on this and other dishes were of a fine, fresh quality.
My companion skipped over fish and chicken selections, choosing les
cotelettes d' Agneau, three generously portioned lamb rib chops served with a
cognac sauce. Though we were not offered a choice as to the preparation of the
lamb, the chops arrived perfectly charred, slicing with buttery ease to a
consistent medium-rare pink. The accompanying sauce was beefy and thick,
touched by the essence of cognac, but a trifle too salty.
The French fries, on the other hand, were perfection, fried to a
crispy golden brown and actually tasted like potatoes. So good, in fact, that
to order the preferred French condiment of mustard would have done them
disservice. The al dente medley of vegetables was equally enjoyable. Julienned
carrots and zucchini had been sauteed in a touch of olive oil with cabbage,
broccoli, spinach and snow peas, all tossed in garlic and parsley.
As we dined, La Crepe Nanou had filled with a crowd as eclectic as
the decor. Nanou in French is a term of endearment used as a pet name for young
ones, and New Orleanians have embraced La Crepe Nanou as one of their pet
haunts for savory and sweet treats.
For dessert, my companion chose a creme caramel, which proved
somewhat disappointing, the custard not coldly rich and silky, the
caramel-coating lacking in deep caramel flavors.
But crepes are the house specialty, and the selection of sweet
crepes is plentiful. These range from the classic flambe crepe suzette, with an
orange cream sauce and Grand Marnier, to the French crepe-stand favorite, crepe
au sucre, a basic crepe dusted with sugar. Of course, my favorite to round off
a fun and pleasurable meal was the Crepe Nanou, made with vanilla, chocolate
and coffee ice cream with a sprinkling of almond slices.
Indeed, laissez les bonnes crepes roulez!
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