'Tis the Season for Soup
DON'S SEAFOOD HUT is a gumbo paradise
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CHARLEY, EVA AND MONIQUE DISPLAY THE SAVORY, HEARTY GUMBO THAT DON'S IS FAMOUS
FOR.
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WHAT: Don's Seafood Hut
CUISINE: Cajun
WHEN: Lunch and dinner daily
WHERE:4801 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 889-1550
CARDS: Major
Each winter, when the marshes and lakes attract thousands of ducks and geese
flying south from Canada, the harsh cold winds and rain bring out the most
dedicated hunters before the crack of dawn. Growing up in Acadiana, I was
raised on the belief that the hunting season brought some of
the best
gumbos and stews of the year. Schooled by the old adage "first you make a
roux," I knew that soon after the hunt, the smell of a roux cooking slowly in
the big cast-iron pot would fill the house with anticipation of another great
gumbo. When we didn't have fresh ducks, we'd make chicken sausage gumbo
finished with fresh oysters and green onions. Whatever went into the old
cast-iron pot, we knew that the slow alchemy of roux, stock, seasoning and
simmering meats would produce one of winter's favorite comfort foods.
Now that the cold weather finally is here again -- even if only momentarily --
my stomach growls with anticipation over the thought of steaming bowls of
gumbo, soups, bisques and stews. Although it's nearly impossible to come across
wild duck in the city, I'll settle for such authentic versions of gumbo found
at restaurants like Don's Seafood Hut, which originally was established in
Lafayette. That location used to be a favorite gathering spot for my family and
friends on cold winter nights. We feasted on their wonderful gumbos and seafood
until we were nearly too full to walk. It wasn't the kind of place that
required getting all dressed up, yet there was a certain formality about the
dining rooms.
Don's Seafood Hut in Metairie offers the same kind of casually elegant
atmosphere and authentic, down-home cooking that was (and still is) produced at
the original restaurant. The gumbos, inspired by great Cajun cooks, still ring
true. Last week, we headed to Don's and broke bread over such homey winter
favorites as seafood gumbos, bisques, crab dinners and fresh winter oysters.
With gumbo solidly on my mind, I ordered several versions for the table. The
best turned out to be the shrimp and crab gumbo, which was as usual, chock full
of seafood and prepared with a deep, rich stock. The seafood gumbo was equally
delicious and a bit more opulent, brimming with shrimp, crabmeat and plump
oysters that weren't overly cooked, which is a common phenomenon at many
restaurants around town. The spicy shrimp gumbo was a creamy, luscious version,
which I preferred to the shrimp and okra gumbo, never having cared much for
okra.
I also ordered some crawfish bisque as an entree for one of the children,
because I rarely take the time to make it for my own family. This beloved,
labor-intensive dish is prepared beautifully at Don's. A full-flavored, thick
and spicy soup, it will make you feel instantly cozy.
I tend to avoid oysters during the warmer months, but by the time November
comes around, I am ready for some serious oyster eating. At Don's, you can
engulf yourself in a sea of beautifully prepared creations. If you're an oyster
lover like me, order the oyster dinner, which includes fresh, salty oysters on
the half-shell, a cup of hearty oyster gumbo, a serving of oysters Bienville
topped with a shrimp and mushroom wine and cream sauce, and sauteed oysters
bubbling in butter. At around $17, it seems expensive at first glance, but you
get quite a lot of food for the price. The servings at Don's are always
enormous, in the true spirit of Acadiana.
Seafood lovers can pick entire categories of entrees headed by their favorite
shellfish. Crawfish, for instance, comes in several versions, the best of which
is the multi-course
crawfish dinner. The crawfish au gratin, which you
don't see much on menus around town, is excellent. It's baked in a creamy au
gratin sauce to a bubbly finish and accompanied by a
baked potato and cole
slaw for $13.50. There also are several shrimp dinners to select from as well
as crab dinners. The softshell crabs were running
good last week, and we
ordered
the fresh jumbos fried golden crisp
and sizzling, priced $9.99
for a
small order and $14.99 for a large.
Although you can always count on the seafood at Don's, there is nothing better
than ordering a bowl of the seafood gumbo on a cold winter night. Aside from
the legendary duck gumbos I was raised on, the versions at Don's adequately
satisfy my annual craving for authentic, Cajun comfort food. Although they come
with just a sprinkling of file on top, you can request more from the kitchen.
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