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REVIEWS ARCHIVE
11.03.98


Garden of Eden
EVE'S MARKET is a fresh food paradise.


WHAT: Eve's Market
CUISINE: Health food market and deli
WHEN: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
WHERE: 7700 Cohn St.
CARDS: Major


The new, adventurous love for organic food and vegetarian cuisine shares the culinary spotlight with the spice revolution. People are getting more creative with fresh herbs and spices while preparing meatless dishes that are low in salt and fat. I remember when a spice rack could be installed on the inside of my 12-inch kitchen cabinet door, and the only grocery stores that carried organic veggies and fresh herbs were tiny shops run by people who looked like they had emerged from the 1960s. Today, many spice racks require the entire back side of the kitchen door, with an annex in the garden for fresh herbs and freezer space to store them off-season. A good cook knows that using herbs and spices like fresh cilantro, basil, peppers and lemongrass, ginger, saffron, and marjoram, plus herbal vinegar and sesame oils, can enhance any vegetarian or low-fat meal.

The traditional supermarket chains now carry everything from fresh herbs and sun-dried tomatoes to tofu and exotic mushrooms. However, health food stores like Eve's Market on tranquil Cohn Street transcend the shopping experience because they offer a much wider variety of natural products, plus personable service. At Eve's Market, the deli is far superior to any I've found at any supermarket chain. The salad bar alone is worth a trip there. Although small, it features such amenities as mixed organic greens, pinenuts (a pricey item for a salad bar indeed), bell peppers in red, yellow and green, red onions and beautiful organic veggies, plus top-of-the-line salad dressings. The sandwiches, hot entrees (which are limited in number) and individually apportioned salads are equally good, and the gourmet cheese selection is quite impressive.

Although I normally patronize large supermarkets for the basics, there's nothing quite like walking into Eve's Market for a shopping spree. Because cooking is one of my passions, I enjoy browsing through their fresh herbs and spices, and filling my basket with beautiful, organically grown vegetables and flawless fruits like miniature satsumas as sweet as honey, seedless grapes that taste like nectar and the tiniest cherry tomatoes known to man. I've always believed that a shopping cart should be sort of like the Food Guide Pyramid -- containing a multitude of grain foods, fresh veggies and fruits, a moderate amount of dairy and protein foods, and only a few "sinful" kid-friendly foods that are high in sugar and salt, earmarked for special occasions. Of course, when I'm cooking for the holidays, it's a totally different story -- one filled with excess.

Eve's is the modern counterpart of the old-fashioned neighborhood store, run by people who, for the most part, understand food and care about their customer's health. Owned by Linda Van Aman and Claudia Dumestre, Eve's doesn't have to abide by the rules of a corporate franchise. Instead, the owners of the 11-year-old store can pay attention to the needs of the people who shop there.

The fresh produce section is always an inspiration, although not all items are organic. So, too, with the dairy products. I am always intrigued by the variety of such items as yogurt, humus and tofu. Be sure to sample the spicy smoked tofu, which only needs warming. For those creative cooks who enjoy adding pizazz to healthful meals, the oil, vinegar and seasoning sections are particularly interesting. You'll also find a fine selection of natural grains and organic beans, rice, nuts and legumes, plus an impressive snack section that includes everything from specialty rice cakes to "designer" crackers and healthy chips.

"We try to provide alternatives to the commercial brand products. For instance, we'll try to do natural alternatives to cereals like corn flakes," says Van Aman. "We offer a variety of soy products because soy is an excellent source of protein, and we offer beverage alternatives to sodas and dairy products, plus a very good selection of snack foods."

When browsing through the deli's menu, I recommend sampling such sandwiches as the hot veggie melt with mushrooms, melted provolone, tomato and bell pepper, the Linzie roll with sprouts, avocado, miso, onion and lettuce in a tortilla, and the delicious spring special (my personal favorite) made with garlic and spiced neufchatel cheese, sprouts, and thinly sliced cucumber. The sandwiches are reasonably priced and are offered with a choice of several breads, including 7-grain, pita and bagels. There are about 30 from which to choose. The best salad I've sampled has been made with black beans blended with shredded carrots, fresh corn and cilantro, and my vote as the best hot entree goes to Eve's quesadilla, made with a whole wheat tortilla, a spicy salsa, red onion and garlic cheddar. For those of you ordering take-out food, sandwiches are prepared from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Regardless of what you purchase at Eve's Market, you can always count on walking out of there with a smile.


   
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