Uptown Pearl
JAMILA'S CAFE proves a true gem in exotic bistro dining.
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He might refer to himself as a `busboy,' but JAMILA'S co-owner Moncef Sbaa also
helps customers understand the intracacies of the cafe's Mediterranean/Tunisian
delights.
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WHAT: Jamila's Cafe
CUISNE: Mediterranean/Tunisian
WHEN: Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Friday, dinner weekends
WHERE: 7808 Maple St., 866-4366
CARDS: Major
Even before you sit down in Jamila's Cafe, the tasteful ambience of this
Tunisian/Mediterranean restaurant has made a favorable impact. There's the
cheerful regional music wafting through the intimate dining area, laced with
the aroma of seafood, lamb and spices. There's the art on the walls,
reminiscent of exotic world ports. And there's owner Moncef Sbaa, greeting you
at the door and treating you like a member of some royal family who's gracing
the bistro with your presence.
"I love people," says Sbaa, a native of Tunisia who has owned the
cafe with his wife, chef Jamila Sbaa, since 1993. "I love for people to come
here and celebrate with us. I love to make them feel at home."
It's this type of highly personal service that has made Jamila's
stand out in New Orleans' booming international-cuisine landscape. Sbaa moved
with his wife from the North African country in the mid-1980s and worked in
other elite New Orleans restaurants -- notably Emeril's and Broussard's --
before opening Jamila's. He jokingly refers to himself as "the busboy," though
in reality he's a knowledgeable, attentive host who likely will serve all or
part of your meal, affably answer questions and make suggestions. He strives to
ensure that all customers enjoy their dining experience, whether it's a
business lunch, bustling family dinner or romantic meal. The multilingual Sbaa
banters with every table, often in French or Arabic, and has a remarkable
memory for repeat customers. He's quick to ask whether visitors have particular
dining needs.
But the service isn't the only aspect of Jamila's that lures
customers back. The traditional fare of Tunisia (on North Africa's
Mediterranean coast, nestled between Libya and Algeria and a hop across the sea
from Italy) is described as a cross between Greek and Middle Eastern food,
though the cuisine is not as rich as Greek food or as intense as Middle
Eastern. Jamila's presents fare that's light and tasty, whose delicate spices
allow the natural flavor of the vegetables, meats and fish to take center
stage. There are several meatless dishes to satisfy vegetarians.
Each meal starts off with a basket of breads and frothy whipped
butter infused with ground garlic and chives. Mint tea (recommended as a
palate-cleanser) is served in delicate glasses from a silver teapot. The lentil
soup is simple, hearty and flavorful, though our party really swooned over the
crawfish, spinach and zucchini bisque -- thick and chunky, yet silky in
texture, its bold seafood flavor tempered with green-vegetable undertones.
("Tunisian comfort food," my companion pronounced it.)
Other recommended appetizers include "briks" -- phyllo dough
stuffed with potatoes, parsley, onions and either shrimp (brik aux crevettes)
or tuna (brik an thon). The flaky dough drew raves due to its delicate, crispy
finish, and the filling was packed with seafood. The salads are generous
portions of vegetables with nice touches such as apples, caraway, tuna or
chicken. Sandwiches include fried shrimp, tagine (a "crustless quiche" stuffed
with lamb, beef, eggs, Parmesan cheese and tomato sauce), and casse croute
Tunisian, or tuna flavored with roasted garlic, tomatoes, bell peppers,
potatoes and capers.
In any visit to Jamila's, time passed between courses often is
spent appreciating the decor. Live plants add a fresh touch, and the walls are
adorned with ethnic pottery, hammered-metal Mediterranean tableaux, bold light
fixtures, lace curtains and a richly colored drape separating the dining areas.
White cloths and napkins cover the tables inside and out (sidewalk seating is
available), and the booths feature textured-tapestry benches. Regular weekend
events -- classical flamenco guitarists on Fridays and belly dancers on
Saturdays -- add more cultural flair.
Jamila's prides itself in its tender lamb entrees, homemade
Tunisian sausage, and fish of the day. There are a host of couscous-based
entrees (vegetarian, fish or chicken), with the couscous predictably light and
flavorful. The broiled red snapper came dusted with paprika, garlic, cumin and
capers, served with a scene-stealing vegetable chutney and grilled vegetables.
The fish itself was fall-off-the-bone tender, though it did lose some of its
characteristic juiciness in spots (probably owing to its impressive girth).
Vegetarian-friendly entrees include rechta, or fettuccine enhanced
with carrots, sun-dried tomatoes, grape leaves, broccoli, yellow squash,
zucchini, spinach and grated pecorino Romano cheese. We marveled at the dark,
rich Tunisian coffee flavored with orange blossom water.
The Sbaas say they and their sons -- Elyes, 11, and Karim, 10 --
have no plans to leave the Uptown area. "This is our dream come true," says
Sbaa. He tells about the cafe's lean early days, when the boys would sleep on
the chairs while their parents worked. "One day, the little one looked at me
and said, `Papa, these chairs don't fit us anymore. We need a babysitter,'" he
recalls. "At that point, we could afford one, so they got one."
Sounds like a success story to us.
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