Real Raw Deal
There's nothing fishy about Kanpai's excellent sushi.
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Kanpai's buffets appeal to sushi lovers on a budget.
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WHAT: Kanpai
CUISINE: Japanese
WHEN: Lunch and dinner daily
WHERE: 4116 Canal St., 483-0880
CARDS: Major
As the summer heat descends on the Big Easy, my thoughts turn to
salads, fresh fruit and sushi. That is why I headed last week to Kanpai, a new
Japanese restaurant in Mid-City. With sushi on the brain, I wanted to check out
the recently introduced lunch and dinner buffet. Foregoing the idea of
suffering the steaming pavement after eating a po-boy, I instead had visions of
a light bowl of miso chased by sweet prawn, ankimo, ceviche or futomaki, with a
fresh orange for dessert, and plenty of iced tea.
Sushi is always a great solution in the dead heat of sizzling June.
Some folks think of sushi as nothing more than minute amounts of expensive
protein rolled in inexpensive rice and even-cheaper seaweed. Then there are
those who shake their heads in terror at the thought of eating a piece of raw
fish. But I am a sushi freak -- have been ever since I put the first, luscious,
soft bite into my mouth when visiting my first sushi bar many years ago. It
tasted clean and light. The cool ginger and fiery wasabi, soothing rice,
velvety fish and tea rendered the sort of yin-and-yang rush that has anchored
Asian cooking for centuries.
Each time I visit a Japanese restaurant such as Kanpai, I
anticipate the experience of these "cooling" and "heating" properties that
result from eating fresh sushi and sashimi. My favorite item to order is rolls.
The slightly sweet vinegar rice gives each bite a pleasant edge, and the
delicate combinations of flavors are always enticing. I have frequented just
about every sushi bar in the New Orleans area (and beyond) and have recently
discovered some of the better places to experience a buffet. Although I far
prefer eating sushi that has just been prepared before my eyes, Kanpai's sushi
buffet succeeds on several levels.
The rather imposing arch leading to Kanpai's parking lot at once
brings to mind images of the Far East. Inside the main dining room, everything
is soothing, impeccable, uncluttered and utterly civilized, in the Japanese
tradition. There are several waitresses constantly walking around, tending to
guests, refilling drinks and removing plates.
In contrast, some sushi bars around town are small and cramped with
a small wait staff, while others are poorly air-conditioned or have an overly
Americanized atmosphere.
If you enjoy grazing and sampling a lot of different things at
once, you can't beat the price for the buffet. The charge for lunch is just
under $10, and for dinner it is $14.50 for adults. Children get half price on
the buffet. The offerings are extensive, from the sushi spread that spans the
entire length of the long sushi bar to the two hot stations and the cold
station offering salads and fruit. Desserts are rather limited, with a few
delicate, miniature cakes on display. On my last visit, there were some
fetching little cream puff swans. But I opted for a fresh orange instead at the
cold station, which was carved in the typical Japanese fashion to resemble a
little basket.
Although the sushi had been sitting in the buffet line for a while,
the quality was surprisingly good. Some of the best offerings included the box
sushi, a tidy wedge of rice that was punctuated by fresh smoked salmon (one
serving on the regular menu costs $9.85). The futomaki (normally priced $8.50)
also was very fresh, as were the half-dozen other rolls I managed to sample. It
was perfect because I was able to take just one slice apiece. My sampler plate
on this visit included a delicious rainbow roll, salmon skin, crunchy softshell
crab, spicy crawfish roll, and mushroom rolls glossed with a sweet, tart
sauce.
At the salad station, I sampled tiny portions of thinly sliced
cucumber salad, marinated fresh spinach salad, and a few marinated string
beans. I didn't care for the noodle salad laced with rather chewy beef and
fresh vegetables, instead preferring a taste of raw broccoli blended with a
light, creamy dressing.
At the hot station, I sampled a delicious steamed dumpling lightly
stuffed with minced pork, a baked mussel served in its shell laced with a spicy
sauce, and shrimp tempura, which was too chewy and rich for my taste. Instead
of the baked drum displayed with its head on, I sampled a delicious mushroom
and onion medley, and a speck of spicy baked eggplant tenderized by its
fragrant sauce.
The two chefs tending the sushi bar were very pleasant, and they
continued to prepare and produce sushi as the evening rolled on. The dining
room was a tranquil oasis, filled with an international cast of patrons ranging
from French to American to Japanese.
The dining room's peaceful aura was enhanced by slow-spinning
ceiling fans, three-dimensional murals of fish, and a small glass, electronic
cat positioned near the sushi bar. The whimsical figure slowly waved its arms
back and forth in mesmerizing precision.
The next time I dined there, I sampled sushi directly from the main
menu for lunch and ended up paying more than I would have at the buffet. But it
was better stuff, prepared fresh to order. Overall, Kanpai is a welcome new
addition to Mid-City, and certainly to the ever-expanding New Orleans sushi
scene.
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