The Flavors of Provence
MIDI SOUTH OF FRANCE finds a perfect fit in LeMeridien.
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MIDI SOUTH OF FRANCE executive chef Stephane Lo Ré's English might be
rusty, but his cooking is as smooth as silk.
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WHAT: Midi South of France
CUISINE: French Provencal
WHEN: Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Sunday
WHERE: Le Meridien Hotel, 614 Canal St., 527-6712
CARDS: Major
It was with delight and a sense of adventure that I embarked on a culinary
journey through the heart of Provence last week, traveling no further than
Canal Street to discover authentic renditions of French country cuisine. Our
host, Robear Hamada, who is director of the new Midi South of France restaurant
in Le Meridien Hotel, was as affable as ever. A connoisseur with a wry sense of
humor, Hamada is a familiar face for those of us who used to frequent the
elegant old Sazerac restaurant in the Fairmont years ago when he ran the front
of the house. Like a host-proprietor presiding over his guests, Hamada is the
personality behind Midi, which opened June 17.
The 110-seat restaurant replaces La Gauloise Bistro and is a
marvelous addition to the downtown restaurant scene. With an authentic outdoor
cafe and dining rooms complemented by a color palette of sunny yellows and
cobalt blues, Pierre Deux fabrics, and fresh herbs on each table, Midi captures
the essence of Provence. The scent of lavender engulfs the second floor, with
sunny bay windows overlooking the street.
Midi is pushing Canal Street to its next level of French
gastronomy, thanks to the vision of Xavier Vincent, hotel food and beverage
director, and the culinary passion of executive chef Stephane Lo Ré. A
native of Aix-en-Provence who recently moved here with his wife and children,
the chef is still polishing up on his English, but his cooking requires no
improvements. He was the executive chef at Hotel Meridien Nice before joining
Le Meridien in New Orleans.
Our meal began with a basket of warm breads accompanied by tiny
pots of tapenade and pureed codfish tinged with garlic. A symphony of
brilliantly intermingled flavors began to unfold during our multicourse dinner,
which started with a soup course highlighted by a soothing soupe de moules. The
creamy broth was accented with saffron, white wine and delicate fresh mussels.
We sampled a mixed baby green salad with a disc of warm goat cheese wrapped in
phyllo that melted in the mouth, then graduated to the appetizer lineup for our
"chef's table" degustation dinner (Midi has a large, round chef's table near
the open kitchen, designed for intimate meals with the chef). A strolling
French guitarist/vocalist, Jean-Louis Laverne (who also has played at Chez
Daniel), serenaded our table.
Gulf shrimp, skewered on a fragrant rosemary sprig and served with
a tart shrimp essence, came in a close second to the unusual but excellent
escargots appetizer. The fricassee was enhanced with Languedoc white wine,
garlic puree, prosciutto and a sensuous Pernod beurre blanc touched with fond
du veau. A confit of fennel and black olives served as a counterpoint to the
savory snails ($10.25).
The most memorable appetizer of all was made with pan-sauteed
Hudson Valley foie gras. The luscious goose liver scallop was served warm atop
a polenta cake and sweetened by a medley of diced artichokes, fresh chives and
a rich balsamic reduction sauce. Next came a sumptuous bouillabaisse, one of
the finest versions I have had in New Orleans, made with ruby red trout,
snapper and tilapia. The savory soup was enriched with a good deal of fresh
saffron and a dash of Pernod. A pocket of creamy aioli added to its luster.
As we approached the main course, I marveled at how much the food
reminded me of Henri, the gourmet flagship restaurant that closed in Le
Meridien several years ago. Midi is a superior idea, because the atmosphere is
casual and homey but the food is equally good.
Some of the most tender lamb chops I have ever sampled came next,
grilled and seasoned with herbes de Provence. Beneath the meat was a timbale of
ratatouille -- although not a classic one -- deglazed with white wine and
heightened with fresh basil and thyme. Fried chives perched atop the lamb made
a strong visual impression.
The pan-sauteed veal chop enjoyed by my dining companion was laced
with a dry vermouth reduction sauce and topped with Parmesan cheese and served
with a tender portobello duxelle. A marvelous little vegetable Napoleon
appeared on the plate -- eggplant layered with creamy buffalo cheese and
tomatoes. (Dinner entrees ranged from $16 to $24 a la carte). Each course was
paired with wines selected by Hamada, the finest being a white Chateauneuf de
Pape-Beaucastet (1988), which is hard to find elsewhere. Although I didn't
sample it, my friend raved about its long finish.
The meal ended with a medley of exquisite desserts and a cup of
strong cappuccino served with a small cube of white chocolate. The dark
chocolate flan was luscious, and the fluffy bread pudding with candied fruit
served with a lemon thyme sorbet was superb. My favorite dessert was the house
signature, a lavender honey creme brulee served with delicate lemon madeleine
cookies. Complimentary valet parking added to the ease of the evening.
Midi succeeds on every level, particularly in the realm of service,
and I imagine that once it is discovered, it will make its mark in the new
millennium.
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