Hey Blake,
Saw in the paper that Proteus paraded again. How old is Proteus? When did the parades stop going into the French Quarter at night? I used to watch them on the steps of the courthouse.
JND
Dear JND,
Yes, indeed, Proteus is back. Actually, Proteus made his comeback in 2000 after a seven-year hiatus. The 118-year-old club was personally welcomed back by the mayor. I hope you got out to see the Proteus parade on Monday night, Feb. 26. It reminded us of the old days, the traditional parades of the 19th century. The old-line krewe was led by the captain on horseback, and the parade was entitled "Tales for the Tiny Folks." I counted 25 riding lieutenants and 40 flambeaux. Of course, Proteus did not parade in the French Quarter since a ban on parading there in 1973 ended that 117-year tradition.
We first saw the Krewe of Proteus in 1882. Rex and Momus were already 10 years old, and Comus was celebrating his 25th anniversary. Because the krewes of Momus and Rex were so exclusive, there was a long waiting list for membership. So a group of young men, many from the New Orleans Cotton Exchange, created a new society named after the son of Neptune.
This new krewe was unique in that there were many Creoles in its membership and it boasted a Creole captain. In 1859, Comus had celebrated its Anglo-Saxon heritage in a parade entitled "The English Holidays." So in its second parade, Proteus paid tribute to the "History of France."
During the period of 1885 to 1889, the Mistick Krewe of Comus ceased parading. Proteus took advantage of the opportunity, and in 1886 moved its parade and ball from Monday night to Mardi Gras night. They also continued the tradition of the visit by Rex and his consort.
Then came Mardi Gras of 1890. The MCK decided to return to the streets, and they wanted their Tuesday night place back. Proteus, however, refused, and a battle of the Carnival Gods began. Before the appointed night, Comus delivered, by way of the mayor, a letter suggesting a compromise: Proteus would go first and the MCK would follow. Proteus accepted. Both agreed that promptness in beginning the procession would not be a problem. But, of course, it was.
On Feb. 18, 1890, for the first and only time in history, there appeared two rival krewes on Canal Street at the same time coming from different directions. When the head of the Proteus parade reached the Bourbon Street intersection, the neutral ground was between the two splendid processions. Hundreds of torches turned the night into day.
Proteus proceeded to cross the neutral ground and pass directly in the path of Comus. Before you knew it, the two masked captains -- dressed in velvet and satin, astride their steeds -- met in the neutral ground and commenced to exchange threats. Contrary to rumor, however, no swords were drawn. The much ado came to nothing, though, when a masker sprang from the crowd and grabbed the reins of the Proteus captain's horse and led them both away. The police arrived, and Comus was allowed to proceed first, while humbled Proteus waited until the way to Bourbon Street was clear.
Proteus paraded again on Mardi Gras night the following year, but then he returned to his original Monday night place. And there he stayed until nine years ago when something happened that changed Mardi Gras in a big way, affecting Proteus, as well as Comus, Momus and Rex.
Probably the most significant impact on Carnival history in the past 30 years was the 1991 anti-discrimination ordinance that was introduced by New Orleans councilwoman Dorothy Mae Taylor. Ms. Taylor wanted to keep private, non-integrated clubs from parading on the public streets. This, as you would expect, produced a great deal of controversy and bitterness. Although Rex promised to abide by the ordinance and continued its Mardi Gras tradition, the krewes of Momus and Comus have not paraded since 1991, and Proteus left the streets after the 1992 season.
Today, in order to get a parade permit, all Orleans Parish clubs sign affidavits agreeing not to discriminate.