$9.99

Label-surfers luck out when they fall for Ralph Steadman's irresistible jester image decorating this Syrah. Produced in France and imported by Bonny Doon wine revolutionary Randall Graham, it lives up to its offbeat first impression. A swirling, rich aroma of bacon fat and pepper leads up to chewy sips of earth, mocha and nearly-buried blackberries. Unembellished grilled steaks will love this wine, as will spicy sausages nestled in creamy red beans. Found at Dorignac's, Langenstein's, Martin Wine Cellar and Whole Food Market. -- Roahen

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