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WINE OF THE WEEK 02 26 02


Dr. Heidemanns Bergweiler
Bernkasteler Badstube
Riesling kabinett 1998

$15-$17
This green bottle traveled from along Germany's Mosel River to offer a taste of the Riesling grape's unusual propensity for developing into wines that achieve both steely acidity and sticky sweetness. The characteristic nose of fruit and petrol is followed by sips of pure lychee; then, as you wonder whether this low-alcohol wine is actually fruit juice, the back of your mouth puckers and you imagine how well it would pair with smoked salmon and dill cream cheese. Found at Dorignac's and Hugh's Wine Cellar. -- Roahen


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