1999 Rowland Red Triangle Syrah
Napa Valley
$23
This is a wine of tremendous depth and concentration that's more Australia than Rhone, but definitely California. The wine, a blend of 83-percent Syrah and 17-percent Cabernet Sauvignon, was coopered in 50-percent new oak and 50 percent in a blend 1- to 2-year-old French and American oak. Black cherry, herbal, spicy bouquet with untamed, wild, brambly features; some peppermint, eucalyptus, a huge, jammy style with nuances of cinnamon and clove, with pepper on the backside. A big, blockbuster style of wine with even tannins that will improve the longer it is open. Good with venison, barbecue chicken or ribs, burgers. Available at Martin Wine Cellar. -- Brenda Maitland

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