 |
Soul Power
Juanita Bowie contacted me last week to announce that she and her daughter,
La Tisha, have reopened Harbor Restaurant and Bar (now called Harbor's
Soul Food) at 3500 Paris Ave. (282-1060). Bowie's mother, Irma Harbor,
opened the restaurant's first incarnation on Tchoupitoulas Street in the Warehouse
District in 1949, moving in 1980 to the Faubourg Marigny building that now houses
Cafe Unique (2529 Dauphine St., 948-8884). Bowie inherited Harbor when her
mother passed away in 1992; she says she fought to keep her lease when the building
was sold to Cafe Unique's owner, Changiz (Chad) Esmail, but ultimately
surrendered and hunted out the new location. Harbor fans will be happy to hear
that Bowie took Mr. Dennis, aka Big D, with her. Health problems
prohibit Big D from long hours in the kitchen, so other employees help him prepare
Harbor's renowned gumbo and banana pudding. Like Esmail, Bowie retained other
Harbor cooks, two of whom worked for her mother at the original Tchoupitoulas
Street location. Harbor's Soul Food carries on the family tradition in a patriotic-themed
dining room from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Victor's Reborn
Victor's, the fine dining venue in the Ritz-Carlton New Orleans (921
Canal St., 524-13310), spent its annual August hiatus exorcising the cutting-edge
visions of former chef Frank Brunacci (the man who introduced us to olive oil
ice cream) and coming to grips with what Ritz-Carlton guests in New Orleans want.
Victor's often-empty dining room indicated that it was too highfalutin in this
city even for a luxury hotel. The restaurant reopened last week as Victor's
Grill, a no-jacket-required chophouse influenced by local tastes and seasonal
products. Chef Matthew Murphy, also the chef at the hotel's French Quarter
Bar, is now in charge. A native of Ireland, Murphy is in all-American territory
at Victor's Grill. There's even fruit pie a la mode on the dessert list. Victor's
Grill is open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
Perfect Storm
Ladies may "Storm the Sazerac" for the 54th year running from 6 p.m. to
8 p.m. Friday, Sept. 26, at the Fairmont Hotel's Sazerac Bar (123 Baronne
St., 529-4733). Prior to 1949, women were allowed to enter the ancient bar (which
has existed in various locations) on Mardi Gras Day only. This "nostalgia party"
is free for anyone dressed in 1940s attire; $7.50 for women not in costume;
and $19.49 for men not in costume. The Sazerac Restaurant will also feature
a special $19.49 dinner menu.
Other Stories This Week in Cuisine:
Wine of the Week
2002 Alexander Valley Chardonnay
Wetzel Family Estate, Sonoma,
California
$12-$16
Restaurant Review
LuLu's in the Garden
Other Stories by Sara Roahen:
Restaurant Review 09 16 03
Feature 09 09 03
Restaurant Review 09 09 03
Sara Roahen Archives
|
|
