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New Ownership, Pt.
1
In April, after 39 years of pulling drafts and hosting the infamous Tulane-LSU
wheelbarrow races, Norby Keanan sold his Uptown bar, Norby's (6078
Laurel St., 895-9441), to Gerry and Carmen Archer. Neighborhood regulars
are relieved that Mr. Norby is still tending bar -- he pulls weekday shifts
from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. -- and also that the kitchen is again operating full tilt.
Dana Michaels, who has previously run kitchens in bars such as Molly's
at the Market and Flanagan's Pub, says her corned beef and cabbage
is a hit on Thursdays. On a recent Wednesday the bright, merry barroom and its
adjoining dining room were packed; the best meal at my table was the Norby po-boy,
a behemoth of ham, grilled onions, mushrooms, Swiss and cheddar cheeses, and
roast beef sopping with gravy.
New Ownership, Pt.
2
Barataria (900 Harrison Ave., 488-7474) also changed hands, two months ago,
when occasional customers Steve and Donna Nold purchased the Lakeview
neighborhood restaurant from its longtime owners. With Barataria came what Donna
Nold describes as "probably the largest selection of baked oyster dishes in
the city," and the Nolds intend to keep it that way. With the help of Chef Danny
Glassmaker, they have updated other areas of the menu. All beef is now certified
Angus, including the prime rib served on Friday and Saturday nights. Opening
hours are lunch Monday through Friday, and dinner Monday through Saturday. Barataria's
bar remains open throughout the afternoon with a new bar menu offering housemade
potato chips and other snacky foods.
All Conched Out
The new, tropical-themed Dominique's (1001 Toulouse St., 522-8800)
debuted two months ago, and already Dominique Macquet is hosting a guest
chef from the Turks and Caicos islands. Through Sunday, Oct. 12, Alix Saimpha
is adding three conch concoctions to Dominique's already conch-heavy menu: baby
conch fingers with Haitian sauce; battered conch on mixed greens with Scotch
bonnet vinaigrette; and a French West Indies conch salad.
The Trifle With Truffles
Bacco (310 Chartres St., 522-2426) hosts its fifth annual truffle festival
through this month, celebrating the exclusive fungus imported from Italy. Nightly
four-course tasting menus (paired with Italian wines for $95, or not, for $75)
include choices such as truffled lobster salad and venison chops with truffled
Calvados demi. Servers will shave truffles over any regular Bacco entree for
an additional $10 at lunch and $15 at dinner.
Other Stories This Week in Cuisine:
Wine of the Week
2001 Tiziano Chianti
Tuscany, Italy
$5-$9
Restaurant Review
Lucy's Retired Surfer's Restaurant & Bar
Other Stories by Sara Roahen:
Restaurant Review 09 30 03
Restaurant Review 09 23 03
Restaurant Review 09 16 03
Sara Roahen Archives
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