2002 Sauvion Chateau du Cleray Muscadet Sevre
et Maine Loire Valley, France $9-$11
Muscadet followed by the Sevre-et-Maine (two small rivers) designation refers to the most significant and varied Muscadet appellation in the Loire Valley. From early maturing grapes, this wine is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks "sur lie" -- in contact with its lees -- to provide more fruit concentration and flavor extraction. Light bodied, clean and bone dry, the wine exhibits aromas of grapefruit, citrus and mineral notes with tart apple-like fruit flavors, an herbal component and crisp acidity on the finish. Good with oysters, seafood and goat cheese. Available at The Wine Seller, Elio's Wine Warehouse, Dorignac's and Langenstein's in Metairie. (Store listings current at press time.)

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