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COVER STORY 01 18 05
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LOUISIANA CONTEMPORARY

201 RESTAURANT AND BAR 201 Decatur St. 561-0007 The new menu is laden with local seafood offerings served up with poise and panache. The chipotle-grilled jumbo shrimp entree comes on a bed of lump crab and fresh herb risotto, sauteed sugar snap peas and a sweet bell pepper coulis. Reservations recommended. Dinner daily, open until midnight on Saturday-Sunday. Credit cards. $$$

ALBERTINE'S TEA ROOM 3811 St. Charles Ave. 899-9308; www.thecolumns.com. Sunday brunch specials have included sesame-crusted tuna with garlic mashed potatoes and wilted spinach greens. All your breakfast favorites from sausage to French toast are on the menu daily, along with affordable mimosas and Bloody Marys. Reservations recommended. Lunch Monday through Saturday, brunch on Sunday. Credit cards. $$

ALLEGRO BISTRO 1100 Poydras St. 582-2350 Popular dishes include paneed veal in a Creole mustard breading served with crawfish hollandaise, and classic Louisiana-style jumbo shrimp boiled in barbecue sauce and served with garlic mashed potatoes. Reservations recommended. Lunch Monday through Friday. Credit cards. $$

ANNADELE'S PLANTATION 71495 Chestnut St., Covington (985) 809-7669; www.annadeles.com Pan-sauteed pompano is topped with lump crabmeat and drizzled with a citrus beurre blanc. The layout includes two floors of dining and walls of windows looking out over the Bogue Falaya river and the surrounding groves. Reservations recommended. Lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner daily, Sunday brunch. Credit cards and checks. $$$

ARTESIA 21516 Hwy. 36, Abita Springs (985)892-1662; www.artesiarestaurant.com At Artesia, you're just as likely to be gazing lovingly at your plate as at your date, with sumptuous fare such as lamb shanks braised till tender in Abita Amber and jumbo lump crabcakes that are bursting with crabmeat. The backyard herb garden provides the kitchen with the freshest savory touch. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner Thursday through Saturday, brunch Sunday. Credit cards and checks. $$$

BANK CAFE 2001 Burgundy St. 371-5260 This recently opened restaurant in Faubourg Marigny has a young, urban feel and impressive fine-dining chops. The smoked rib-eye with pecans and bacon demi-glace reminds you that you're in New Orleans, not New York. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday, brunch on Sunday. Credit cards and checks. $$

BEGUE'S 300 Bourbon St. (Royal Sonesta Hotel) 586-0300 The grouper bouillabaisse is inspired by Cajun courtbouillon and is a fragrant delight. Another perennial favorite is the pan-roasted veal with roasted artichokes, summer vegetables, and lime. Reservations recommended. Dinner daily. Credit cards. $$$

BENEDICT'S RESTAURANT PLANTATION 1144 N. Causeway Blvd., Mandeville (985) 626-4557; www.benedictsplantation.com This sumptuous restaurant resides among ancient live oak trees and serves grand Cajun and Creole fare including baked oysters of all varieties, Creole crabcakes, pecan-smoked baked rib, and trout meuniere or amandine. Reservations accepted. Dinner Wednesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday. Credit cards. $$

BISTRO AT MAISON DE VILLE 733 Toulouse St. 528-9206; www.maisondeville.com The confit of duck is perfect for chilly weather; house-smoked duck breast is served with cannelini bean cassoulet, grilled Italian sausage, seared foie gras, and wild rice. The house specializes in a variety of soups, which change regularly. Reservations required. Lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner daily. Credit cards. $$$

BRIGTSEN'S 723 Dante St. 861-7610; www.brigtsens.com Chef Frank Brigtsen's commitment to freshness means that the menu changes often; winter brings favorites like the butternut squash and shrimp bisque and roast duck with cornbread stuffing and honey pecan gravy. Reservations recommended. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

CAFE LATROBE 707 Conti St. 568-9992 The recently expanded dinner menu includes fresh takes on local favorites, like the New Orleans surf 'n' turf -- sauteed Gulf shrimp and filet mignon tips in a Creole cream gravy over rosemary biscuits. The pecan crusted redfish is served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed spinach. No reservations. Breakfast and lunch daily; dinner Tuesday through Saturday; Sunday brunch. Credit cards. $

CAFE VOLAGE 720 Dublin St. 861-4227 This winter, try robust dishes like the tomato-based rabbit stew, or the braised veal shank, finished in a mushroom demi-glace and served over pasta. Reservations recommended on weekends. Lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, brunch Sunday. Credit cards. $$

THE CHEF'S TABLE 2100 St. Charles Ave. 525-CHEF (2433); www.ci-no.com/restaurant.html Homework suddenly becomes appealing when it's the meals turned out by the student chefs at the Culinary Institute of New Orleans. Start off with the fried green tomatoes topped with jumbo Gulf shrimp in remoulade sauce, and move on to dishes like the potato-crusted salmon in citrus beurre blanc. Reservations recommended. Lunch Monday through Friday. Credit cards. $$

COPELAND'S 680 N. Hwy. 190, Covington (985) 809-9659; 701 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie 831-3437; 1001 S. Clearview Pkwy., Jefferson 733-7843; 1700 Lapalco Blvd., Harvey 364-1575; 4338 St. Charles Ave. 897-2325; www.copelands.net/copelands/copeland.asp The eggplant pirogue is a house special with fried eggplant topped with shrimp, crab claws and au gratin sauce and served over angel hair pasta. The seafood platters are also popular choices, and the rich chocolate fudge cake ends the meal on a sweet note. Reservations recommended. Hours vary by location. Credit cards. $$

DAKOTA RESTAURANT 629 N. Hwy. 190, Covington (985) 892-3712; www.thedakotarestaurant.com Northshore diners in the know keep coming back for the house specialty, the rich, silky crabmeat and brie soup. Cuvee's sister across the lake also shines with appetizers like the seafood beignets in lobster cream sauce, as well as the smoked pork tenderloin glazed in Steen's cane syrup and soaked in Kentucky bourbon barbecue butter. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

DANTE'S KITCHEN 736 Dante St. 861-3121; www.danteskitchen.com Stars of the seasonal menu also include the falafel-crusted fresh Gulf fish, as well as brunch dishes like savory crab and Brie French toast and shrimp and grits. Reservations accepted for parties of six or more. Lunch and dinner daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday. Credit cards. $$

DICK AND JENNY'S 4501 Tchoupitoulas St. 894-9880 By policy, this Uptown spot doesn't advertise, so the full dining room speaks volumes of the power of word of mouth -- or what Dick and Jenny can put in your mouth. A new menu will debut in February, but favorites like the fried oysters in remoulade sauce will remain. No reservations. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$

DOC SMITH'S 1009 Poydras St. 561-0528 This casual annex to Smith & Wollensky's serves the classic steakhouse menu in a relaxed atmosphere. USDA prime steaks are dry-aged and paired with favorites like lobster cocktail, tomato and onion salad, whipped potatoes and creamed spinach. No reservations. Dinner and late-night daily. Credit cards. $$

EMERIL'S 800 Tchoupitoulas St. 528-9393; www.emerils.com Local ingredients shine in appetizers like the almond-crusted Plaquemines Parish oysters served with melting brie, bacon brown sugar tomato glaze and rosemary fennel apple slaw. Reservations required. Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner daily. Credit cards. $$$

EMERIL'S DELMONICO RESTAURANT 1300 St. Charles Ave. 525-4937; www.emerils.com This stately St. Charles Avenue dining establishment, first opened in 1895, shines under Lagasse's stewardship with dishes like the wild mushroom-ricotta cannelloni, served with oven-roasted tomato cream sauce, sauteed rapini and herb pesto. Reservations required. Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner daily, jazz brunch Sunday. Credit cards. $$$

ETOILE 407 N. Columbia St., Covington (985) 892-4578 The shining star at this Northshore bistro is the culinary styling of Chef Tony Savage. One popular dish is mussels with spicy dill in a white wine cream broth served with sweet potato French fries. A sweet ending to an elaborate meal is the apple tart with almond creme. Lunch Monday through Saturday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$

FRENCH QUARTER BAR (FQB) 921 Canal St. (The Ritz-Carlton Hotel) 524-1331; www.ritzcarlton.com Cocktail specials include the 'Bloody Tower' -- seven takes on the classic Bloody Mary -- and the Davenportini, named for frequent performer Jeremy Davenport. Either goes well with the New York strip, served with bordelaise sauce, roasted fingerling potatoes, asparagus and cippollini onions. Reservations recommended Thursday through Saturday. Lunch and dinner daily, jazz brunch Sunday. Credit cards. $$

GABRIELLE RESTAURANT 3201 Esplanade Ave. 948-6233; www.gabriellerestaurant.com Start off with the seared foie gras on a pig's ear with fresh fruit and blueberry demi-glace, and move on to the Creole cream cheese-crusted lamb chops with Israeli couscous, roasted pecans and black grape sauce. Reservations recommended. Lunch Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

GAUTREAU'S 1728 Soniat St. 899-7397; www.gautreaus.net In 2004, Chef Mathias Wolf was selected as one of Food & Wine magazine's 10 best new chefs in America for creations like seared sea scallops with truffled black pepper linguine and braised lamb shank with white bean, zucchini and tomato pistou. Reservations recommended. Dinner Monday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

GIROD'S BISTRO 500 Chartres St. 524-9752 The house recommends the bouillabaisse, a saffron-tomato broth chock full of fresh Gulf fish, shrimp and oysters and topped with aioli and a falafel cake. No reservations. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$

HILLERY'S ON TOULOUSE 827 Toulouse St. (Hotel St. Marie) 571-2888 Chef Ed Moise recommends an appetizer of Oysters Verdant, flash-fried oysters served with spinach and a Pernod cream, before moving on to meltingly tender braised veal cheeks served over housemade fettuccine with natural au jus. Reservations recommended. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

JACQUES-IMO'S CAFE 8324 Oak St. 861-0886; www.jacquesimoscafe.com The oddly named Godzilla vs. Fried Green Tomato features a stuffed softshell crab perched atop a fried green tomato. Voted one of the top three overall restaurants in town by Gambit Weekly readers in 2004. Reservations accepted for parties of five or more. Dinner Monday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$

JEAN LAFITTE BISTRO 240 Bourbon St. 523-4640; www.ruebourbon.com In the same building that houses Tony Moran's is this upstairs restaurant that serves what it calls 'New Orleans French cuisine.' One of the more popular items on the menu is the crawfish Linda: pasta tossed with crawfish cream sauce. Reservations accepted. Dinner daily. Credit cards. $$$

JUNIPER 115 Gerard St. Mandeville (985) 624-5330 Juniper's chef creates 'progressive Creole' cuisine with a menu that changes weekly. Management recommends the pork osso buco, a braised pork shank with Creole demi-glace over oyster andouille dressing finished with Jack Daniels' cane syrup sauce. Reservations recommended. Lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$

K-PAUL'S LOUISIANA KITCHEN 416 Chartres St. 596-2530; www.kpauls.com Paul Prudhomme invented blackened fish at this legendary restaurant and the black drum, served with drawn butter, potatoes and veggie, continues to be the restaurant's signature dish. Reservations accepted. Lunch Thursday through Saturday, dinner Monday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

LE PARVENU RESTAURANT 509 Williams Blvd., Kenner 471-0534 In an old cottage, diners discover Chef Dennis Hutley's innovative Creole cuisine. The popular mirliton stuffed with shrimp and crab makes an excellent appetizer for the signature paneed lobster medallions served with a cognac cream sauce. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday, brunch Sunday. Credit cards. $$$

THE MARIGNY BRASSERIE 640 Frenchmen St. 945-4472; www.cafemarigny.com Award-winning Chef Scott Varnedoe has recently taken over the kitchen at this swank Faubourg Marigny bistro. His creative additions include the cast-iron seared beef tenderloin set atop an andouille caramelized red onion and goat cheese cheesecake. Reservations accepted. Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Sunday through Saturday, Sunday brunch. Credit cards. $$

MAT & NADDIE'S 937 Leonidas St. 861-9600 Mat & Naddie's popular grilled oyster appetizers are traditional, but the menu also features chicken waterzooi, a Belgium stew of organic boneless chicken breast, braised leeks, baby carrots and jasmine rice finished with a liaison base. The nightly wine dinner pairs three courses with complementary wines. Reservations recommended. Dinner Monday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

MURIEL'S JACKSON SQUARE 801 Chartres St. 568-1885; www.muriels.com The ghosts of New Orleans look on approvingly at Chef Erik Veney's innovative dishes of goat cheese and crawfish crepes and pan-seared, pecan-crusted drum served with a crabmeat pecan relish and lemon beurre blanc. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

NAPOLEON HOUSE BAR AND CAFE 500 Chartres St. 524-9752 Everyone loves the historic Napoleon House, with its knowledgeable barkeeps with their penchant for Pimm's Cups. The menu of snacks and Italian entrees features a muffaletta, served hot with ham, salami, melted Provolone cheese and homemade olive salad. No reservations. Lunch and dinner daily, late-night Friday and Saturday. Credit cards. $$

THE PELICAN CLUB RESTAURANT & BAR 615 Bienville St./312 Exchange Alley 523-1504; www.pelicanclub.com This classy restaurant's menu endeavors to provide a high-flying choice for any refined taste, such as the Trio of Duckling: a combination of Peking duck leg confit, Chinese barbecue duck and Maigret duck breast served with honey and Louisiana navel orange sauce and accompanied by three-potato mash and baby vegetables. Reservations recommended. Dinner daily. Credit cards. $$$

PERISTYLE 1041 Dumaine St. 593-9535 While the style and most of the menu remains the same, Chef Tom Wolfe has added a slow-grilled pork chop on tasso wild rice pilaf with a port wine and sultana reduction and a grilled boneless duck breast with seared foie gras served with duck crackling sweet potato hash in a stratified foie gras berry reduction. Reservations recommended. Lunch Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

PHILIP CHAN'S ASIAN CAJUN BISTRO 301 Decatur St. 522-4964 Atlanta's Chef Philip Chan has opened a contemporary Louisiana restaurant in the French Quarter with a decidedly Asian flair. Try the Asian Cajun Stuffed Chicken, with eggplant, cheese and crawfish, or the Orange Duck, Asian Cajun style served with Grand Marnier sauce and Louisiana spices. Reservations recommended. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily. Credit cards. $$$

QUARTER SCENE RESTAURANT 900 Dumaine St. 522-6533 Ask for Tennessee Williams' favorite table at this historic French Quarter locale. For breakfast, the famous playwright might have enjoyed the decadent Caribbean Belgian waffle topped with mixed fruit and for dinner, the rich pecan crusted catfish topped with crawfish. Reservations recommended for parties of six or more. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

RALPH'S ON THE PARK 900 City Park Ave. 488-1000; www.ralphsonthepark.com The grilled herb-crusted lamb chops feature tender domestic lamb chops, grilled with a mustard-herb crust and served with a natural sauce, satin potato and wilted spinach. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday, dinner daily, brunch Sunday. Credit cards. $$$

RESTAURANT AUGUST 301 Tchoupitoulas St. 299-9777; www.restaurantaugust.com In the past, diners have encountered gnocchi filled with crab and covered in truffle shavings, a Moroccan spicy duck and a five-course asparagus tasting menu. The $20.05 three-course lunch special continues in the new year. Reservations recommended. Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Monday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

RESTAURANT CUVEE 322 Magazine St. 587-9001; www.restaurantcuvee.com For an entree, management recommends the Steen's cane syrup-cured duck breast with whole confit leg accompanied by seared Hudson Valley foie gras with pear glace. Reservations recommended. Lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Monday through Saturday and some Sundays. Credit cards. $$$

STELLA! 1032 Chartres St. 587-0091; www.restaurantstella.com Chef Scott Boswell sure has been busy lately, what with running his own restaurant and taking part in an Iron Chef battle. Let's hope that with dishes like breast of Moullard duck, marinated then seared and served with foie gras won tons, mooshu pancake stir-fry and currant-cassis reduction, he emerges victorious. Reservations recommended. Dinner Wednesday through Monday. Credit cards. $$$

STIXX ASIAN CAJUN CAFE & SUSHI BAR 535 E. Judge Perez Drive, Chalmette 276-2742 Stixx mixes Asian and Cajun in dishes like the paneed chicken: chicken served over angel hair pasta and topped with crawfish cream sauce. There's also a full-service sushi and sashimi bar. Reservations accepted. Lunch and dinner Monday through Friday, dinner Saturday. Credit cards. $$

SUGAR HOUSE 315 Julia St. (Embassy Suites Hotel) 525-1993; www.embassysuites.com/es/neworleans The management recommends the crabmeat-stuffed shrimp: three butterflied jumbo Gulf shrimp wrapped around crabmeat dressing and coated with coconut curry oil before roasting. All entrees come with a chef special, house salad and a choice of garlic mashed potatoes, rice pilaf or rosemary mashed potatoes. Reservations recommended. Lunch buffet Monday through Friday, dinner daily. Credit cards. $$

WOLFE'S OF NEW ORLEANS 7224 Pontchartrain Blvd. 284-6004; www.wolfesofneworleans.com Chef Tom Wolfe's contemporary New Orleans cuisine includes the panko crusted red fish with a smoked Gouda veloute and the Steen's cane syrup roast duck with foie gras and duck-crackling sweet potato mash. For the third year in a row, Wine Spectator honored Wolfe's wine list with an Award of Excellence. Reservations recommended. Lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Credit cards. $$$

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