LIVER

Whether from the chicken or the cow, this delicacy is a favorite of particular palates. At Café Degas, the sautéed calf's liver gets plenty of savory company from apple-smoked bacon, celery root remoulade and a caramelized onion bordelaise. Also channeling the flavors of the French countryside is the calf liver at Chateau du Lac in Kenner, which is served with a creamy Roquefort sauce and potatoes. Veal liver is given the French Creole treatment at Galatoire's Restaurant, available with a selection of traditional sauces and garnishes in this grande dame's grand dining room. Meanwhile, Carmine's Italian & Seafood Grill features a classic liver and onion combination as a daily special. The fried chicken livers take a downhome turn at the Praline Connection in the Faubourg Marigny, where they're served with pepper jelly. Southern fried chicken livers get a similarly spicy pepper jelly sauce at Elizabeth's Restaurant in the Bywater. At Gulfstream, the new concept at the former Houston's location on St. Charles Avenue, look for the crispy chicken liver salad, paired with pickled beets, m‰che, goat cheese and tomato.