OYSTERS

Raw, fried, baked, broiled, poached or simmered — no one does oysters quite like the cooks of south Louisiana and local restaurants showcase some of the most original preparations anywhere. Drago's Restaurant caused a sensation by charbroiling freshly shucked oysters with its distinctive sauce, and now other takes on this bubbling hot version appear on more and more menus. Charbroiled oysters are now a highlight of the menu at Alexander's Food and Spirits, the new Uptown spot on Magazine Street, and they're also a mainstay at the Saltwater Grill on South Carrollton Avenue. Begue's Restaurant at the Royal Sonesta Hotel serves its namesake oysters Begue's on the half shell but not raw — rather, they're lightly fried, crusted in garlic and set atop creamy leek confit. Nearby, at the Desire Oyster Bar, the Buffalo-fried oysters deliver the familiar spicy Buffalo sauce cut with creamy blue cheese dressing. Oysters make friends in Acme Oyster Bar's fried "peace maker po-boy," which combines oysters and shrimp with Tabasco-infused mayonnaise for an argument-ending sandwich. Folks hop over to Mr. Roo's Deli & Catering in Metairie for a classic rendition of the fried oyster and shrimp platter, served with fries, vegetables, salad and bread. Fried oysters get a different sort of accompaniment at the Savvy Gourmet, where the Uptown culinary hot spot pairs its Louisiana oysters with king oyster mushrooms in a salad with celery heart, broccoli, sprouts and Creole mustard vinaigrette. For oysters with an Italian accent, diners at Vincent's Italian Cuisine order the sautéed oysters with green onions, garlic and red and black pepper in olive oil. Meanwhile, JoAnn Clevenger's Upperline Restaurant pays homage to the Bywater's Restaurant Mandich with its oysters St. Claude, served fried with a spicy sauce of lemon, garlic and paprika. The Slidell Creole restaurant Bealer's features oysters Louisianne, covering fried oysters in sautéed artichokes, mushrooms, green onions and lemon pepper sauce. Gulfstream Restaurant's oysters St. Charles uses creamed spinach as a bed for crispy fried oysters topped with hot sauce and aioli. Diner fare at La Peniche gets a serious upgrade with oysters La Peniche, which pairs fried oysters with grilled tomatoes and hollandaise sauce on a toasted English muffin. One of the most famous local dishes, oysters Rockefeller, was invented at Antoine's in 1889, when the landmark restaurant was already nearly 50 years old. The somewhat newer — since 2005 — Abita Springs dining destination Longbranch does its own version with oysters Rockefeller "deconstructed" — butter-poached oysters on wilted spinach with bacon chips and licorice root. The oysters Riccobono from Riccobono's Peppermill combines oysters, mushrooms, garlic, Italian cheese and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs for a dish that's baked en casserole until bubbly.