German wines, which include some of the world's finest whites, are often misunderstood. Many producers, noting this marketplace reticence, are simplifying labels without omitting key information to indicate varietal, region, ripeness (level of sweetness) and quality. On this wine's label, under the grape name, Silvaner, "Trocken" indicates a very dry wine. The name of the producer is shown in smaller letters. The term "Qualitatwein" specifies that the wine is from one of the 13 official growing regions Ñ in this case, Franken. In this bone-dry wine, ripe apple and pear aromas linger on the palate, enhanced by a lively crispness and a wonderfully balanced acidity. Sip as a delightful summer aperitif or enjoy this food-friendly wine with spicy sausages, mushroom quiche, trout Meuniere and fruit cobblers. Where to buy it: The Wine Seller, Sip Wine Market and Hugh's Wine Cellar in Mandeville. Where to drink it: Crescent City Brewhouse, Jackson Restaurant. (Listings current at press time.)