New Zealand labels featuring popular varietals such as those sassy Sauvignon Blancs and precocious Pinot Noirs have turned casual wine drinkers into impassioned enthusiasts. But make way for Chardonnay Ñ especially this value-priced charmer from Marlborough. Fermented and aged in a combination of barrels and tanks, the wine captures the regional expression of the grape in an elegant, yet assertive, style. Smooth and refreshing, the wineÕs citrusy aromas tinged with subtle oaky notes fuse into concentrated flavors of green apple, lime and stone fruit with a pleasant minerality. Serve chilled but not icy. ItÕs good as an aperitif and a fine accompaniment to grilled fish, shellfish, cream soups, soft cheeses and light dishes. Where to buy it: SchiroÕs Market and CafŽ, LangensteinÕs in Metaire and Whole Foods Market in Metairie. Where to drink it: Marigny Brasserie, AdolfoÕs, One Eyed Jacks, SchiroÕs Market and CafŽ, Delachaise and Original Pierre MasperoÕs. (Listings current at press time.)