Robertshaw is best known for running the popular Indian pop-up also called Bird by Bird outside Sidney's Saloon (1200 St. Bernard Ave., 504-224-2672; www.sidneyssaloon.com), but when the Molly's spot became available last month, he jumped at the chance to run his own kitchen.
The clay tandoor oven Robert- shaw built won't fit inside the 55-square-foot kitchen space at the Decatur Street watering hole, so the Indian concept is on hiatus.
"It's still a goal down the line," Robertshaw says. "I had to accept that if I put a 1,000-degree tandoor in (the Molly's kitchen), I wouldn't make it very long."
The Molly's spot has been home to a number of pop-ups, most recently Matthew Kopfler's L'Enfant Terrible. It also was home to a pop-up preview of the St. Claude Avenue burger hub Junction and Dis Taco from Killer Poboys founders Cam Boudreaux and April Bellow.
At Bird by Bird, the simple Mexican taqueria concept features burritos, tacos and salads.
"I love Mexican food, and it makes for perfect bar food," Robertshaw says. "There's always something salty, something fresh." Robertshaw is making almost everything in-house, including spicy charred tomato salsas, guacamole, grilled meats and toppings. A single taco costs $3, while larger bowls and burritos are $7. The pop-up officially opened Sept. 6, and the menu is evolving. Bird by Bird La Taqueria is open from 4 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Saturday.