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Carrollton Market Opens in Riverbend 

click to enlarge Carrollton Market serves pig tail tots 
with pickled peppers.

Carrollton Market serves pig tail tots with pickled peppers.

  Carrollton Market (8132 Hampson St., 504-252-9928; www.carrolltonmarket.com) opened in Riverbend March 21. It occupies the space that housed One Restaurant & Lounge for a decade, and the new restaurant also features an open kitchen, although the space has been renovated.

  Chef Jason Goodenough and general manager Stephen Deisinger oversee ambitious food and drink menus. Both are recent transplants from Philadelphia, and Goodenough worked locally at Emeril Lagasse's NOLA and Ralph's on the Park since moving to New Orleans in 2011. Goodenough's menu features many creative interpretations of Louisiana and Southern dishes. "I'm a Yankee cooking Southern food," Goodenough says. His version of chicken and dumplings combines house-made gnocchi tossed with speck, creme fraiche and tarragon. Fried pork tail tots feature deboned pig tail meat, pickled peppers, garlic chips and Creole mustard jus. The menu incorporates many locally sourced ingredients, and Goodenough grows 10 varieties of heirloom tomatoes and vegetables in his own garden to use at the restaurant.

  Goodenough worked at renowned Philadelphia restaurants Brasserie Perrier and the modern Japanese restaurant Morimoto (the namesake restaurant of TV's Iron Chef's Masaharu Morimoto). A Japanese-style dish at Carrollton Market, that Goodenough calls "new-style sashimi," is the Gulf yellowfin tuna "hot oil," in which Goodenough spoons a very hot blend of sesame and vegetable oils over thin-sliced fish. The oil flash fries the tuna and combines with other components to dress the fish like a vinaigrette.

  The bar features a robust drinks program and stocks seven or eight house-made syrups, house-made tonic water and for some drinks, ice is chipped from large blocks. The cocktail menu includes classics such as a sidecar, Sazerac and Negroni, as well as original drinks. The One Fifty What Swizzle is a Caribbean cocktail mixing Lemon Hart 151 rum, Famous Grouse Black Scotch, bitters, citrus and mint, and it's stirred with a swizzle stick. The bar also offers nonalcoholic drinks, including house-made ginger beer, spiced pomegranate made with orange blossom water and pomegranate syrup, and lemonade infused with lavender.

  Carrollton Market serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday.

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