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Smoked pork ribs in house-made barbecue sauce are served with pickled watermelon rind relish. Oven-roasted, scale-on Gulf fish is seasoned with chili flakes, black pepper, shaved garlic, thyme, olive oil, lemon and sea salt and served with roasted sweet onions tossed with parsley and Banyuls vinegar. Reservations recommended. Lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. Credit cards. $$$

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