Roughly a year after moving the restaurant from its longtime Faubourg Marigny location to a spruced-up cinderblock building in eastern New Orleans, Juanita Bowie has closed Harbor¹s Soul Food. ³It was just too dangerous [in the neighborhood],² she says. ³I was scared for my people.² Bowie¹s mother, Irma Harbor, first opened Harbor¹s in 1949 in the Warehouse District. When Harbor passed away in 1992, Bowie and her brother, Dennis ³Big D² Price, carried on the soul food tradition. Price was especially renowned for his banana pudding; other specialties included cornbread dressing, lusty gumbo and everything smothered. Bowie is gathering her thoughts for the time being and may start a catering business in the future.
Taqueros (1432 St. Charles Ave., 525-9996) is now open for brunch from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays, a prime opportunity to test drive the extensive rolling-cart tequila service usually kept upstairs at Coyoacan. Cuitlacoche quesadillas are also available during brunch; as far as I know this is the only local source for the inky corn fungus, a fascinating/frightening Mexican delicacy that tastes a little sweet, a little smoky and a little fungal.
Sense of Discovery
Indigo (2285 Bayou Road, 947-0123), where Chef Jared Katz's current menu comprises numerous interesting small plates and a few straightforward entrees, did right by another delicacy last week: A mousselike dollop of foie gras melted like butter over a slab of sushi bar-style barbecue eel, successfully pairing the liver's subtle funk with the distinct taste of the sea. I had the pleasure of studying this dish during a dinner that otherwise offered as many hits as misses. The green-glowing space, with its irrationally comfortable wooden chairs and leafy ironwork, is still all-hit.