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Trends, notes, quirks and quotes from the world of food 

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"A lot of people, including me, have griped about the recent inevitability of these small-plates menus, but if you look at it a certain way, we have entered the culinary equivalent of the album era in rock 'n' roll, the point when the basic unit of consumption started to become not the course, but the meal. Meet the Beatles! had become The Dark Side of the Moon."

Los Angeles Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold, from a recent review of a restaurant serving only a chef's tasting menu and allowing no substitutions.

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