With oysters coming into peak season and the waning warmth of summer still with us, there's no better time to enjoy a refreshing Muscadet. The richest vineyards lie where the Sevre and Maine Rivers in northwestern France join the Loire River just before it reaches the Atlantic. This classic Muscadet from 25-year-old vines, "vieilles vignes," are left on the lees (spent yeast) "sur lie," until bottling, providing extra time for the lees to lend more distinctive varietal character and complexity. The citrus aromas lead into intense, fresh flavors and a clean, dry finish. Great with shellfish, grilled fish, and smoked salmon. Available at Martin Wine Cellar, Acquistapace's Covington Super Market and Hugh's Wine Cellar in Mandeville.