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Wine of the Week 

While bottles with gimmicky names and packaging don't generally command much revisiting from this wine lover, this Chilean "wine in a sack" offers good taste and value as well as an interesting history. In fact, I can see it as a house wine to delight friends as the story behind the bottle's snug burlap bag is unraveled. It seems a century or more ago, the wines were transported in wobbly, wooden horse-drawn carts along rough roads, often resulting in breakage. The burlap wrapping was a way to make sure that each bottle arrived at its destination intact. Today, the charming custom continues. In the glass, aromas of ripe cherries and herbs precede jammy strawberry, plumy notes and spice on the palate. Mature, smooth tannins. Drink now and over the next five years. A good accompaniment to hearty soups and stews, roast pork, herbed chicken and wonderful Spanish cheeses like aged Manchego. Where to buy it: Dorignac's. (Listings current at press time.)
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