Labels bearing the much-heralded 2005 Burgundy vintage are often accompanied by imposing prices, but if Pinot Noir enthusiasts are willing to forego some complexity, there are bargains to be found. Grapes for this wine were sourced from 35-year-old hillside vineyards on a small parcel between Vosne Romanée and Nuits St. George. Aged in used oak barriques, this unfiltered wine exhibits red fruit aromas joined by discreet whiffs of dried cherries and floral notes. On the palate, red cherry and berry flavors dominate with a pleasant, slightly dusty character. Light-bodied and uncomplicated, the wine is well balanced, low in alcohol, has good acidity and smooth tannins. It's ready to drink now and is a versatile, food-friendly wine that matches well with a variety of dishes such as firm-fleshed fish, grilled or roasted meats and semisoft cheeses. Where to buy it
: The Wine Seller, Rouses in Uptown and Mid-City, and Martin Wine Cellar in Metairie. Where to drink it
: Galatoire's, Cochon and Orleans Grapevine. (Listings current at press time.) Brenda Maitland
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