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Red’s Chinese pushes opening to late October 

  Those waiting for the opening of the fall's most anticipated Chinese-Cajun fusion joint, Red's Chinese (3048 St. Claude Ave., 646-515-0538; www.redschinese.com), will have to stave off their cravings a while longer. The restaurant pushed back its opening until the end of October.

  Co-owners Tobias Womack (a veteran of Mission Chinese, which has locations in San Francisco and New York) and Amy Mosberger are busy taking their delivery-only, cash-only business into a full-time, sit-down gig, complete with complex dishes that draw from both Chinese sources and New Orleans sensibilities. Entrees like General Lee's chicken (fried half-chicken, bourbon soy, smoked peanuts, chili, cilantro) and Bywater eggplant (mirliton, gochujang, sunflower seeds, white sesame) place this playful, well-spiced fusion on a pedestal. In some spots, the influence of Mission Chinese is obvious: a Southern spin on the restaurant's much-lauded kung pao pastrami will appear on Red's menu.

  When asked if a take on my favorite Mission Chinese dish (beef heart and scallop sashimi) might make an appearance, Womak laughed and said, "A lot of people were really weirded out by that dish."

  "We're going to be playing with a lot more cold dishes, things that couldn't survive 10 or 15 minutes in a carry-out box and still taste good," Womack says. "So, you'll see some colder options, some interesting crudite. Maybe not just beef heart right now."

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