"Sometimes people give me a hard time when I cook [kebabs]. But for me, symbols are important. Street food is the driving force of integration."
— Parisian chef Thierry Marx quoted in a New York Times story about why he sometimes puts gourmet kebabs on the menu at his two Michelin-starred restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Anti-immigrant, right-wing groups, including the National Front, have criticized the embrace of kebabs — France's most popular street food — as an attack on French gastronomy, tradition and identity.