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Wine of the week: Jean Vullien & Fils Brut NV 

Vin de Savoie, France

Retail $21

The Savoie region in eastern central France backs up to the foothills of the Alps. Americans have begun to pay attention to the character of the area's wines. This sparkling wine is a blend of 50 percent chardonnay, 30 percent jacquere and 20 percent altesse. A white grape indigenous to the region, jacquere adds citrus flavors and acid. Altesse is an indigenous white grape that adds body. Upon removal of the cork, there is a yeast and brioche aroma, which affirms the wine was made in the methode traditionnelle. A tart apple character dominates the aroma and flavor of the wine. It is not from the Champagne region, but it has a chalky aspect. Drink it now or hold it for up to five years. Drink it as an aperitif or with smoked salmon, raw oysters, caviar, crabmeat ravigote and truffled cheeses. Buy it at: Swirl Wine Bar & Market and Faubourg Wines. Drink it at: Effervescence and Coquette.

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